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"Emma Andrews" <emmaeatspoo@hotmail.com>
 
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Subject : 
chiloe and more national parks
 
Date : 
Sat, 27 Apr 2002 20:36:42 +0000
 
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Hi all!
I am back in Chile again, in the lake district, there´s loads of adventure
things to do around here and I cant wait to get started, it´s cold here,
fresh and invigorating, really nice.  pretty cloudy but it all adds to the
experience eh? got to look on the bright side!  It´s a little annoying
because I still feel like I´m kind of tied to BsAs becuase I know I have to
head there before I can get anywhere else as I need to get my stuff, say
goodbye to chief for good and get out there alone.
I am aiming to be in Bolivia in about a months time but there is just so
much to do here, so much I didnt expect to want to see, and the fact that
argentina now is so much cheaper for me opens up so many more places and
opportunities for me when I get back there.
I just spent a few days on the island of Chiloe which was so laid back and
lovely,  it is kind of seen by the chileans as the arse of shile and chilote
is synonimous with their description of country bumpkin.  They live a simple
life, they are poorer than the rest of the country and they work hard for
what they have.  But its a lovely charming place.  The only thing is I bgan
doubting my language abilities, I´m sure that when I was asking them if the
price of hospedaje included hot showers, agua caliente, they misheard or I
said it wrong and they actually thought I was saying 'please make sure that
when i get into he shower that any hot water anywhere is turned right off
never to be turned on again, at least in my presence, infact make it
freeeeeezing cold, so much so that I cant even hold my hands under the tap
to wash them'  So back on the mainland I have just had the most needed
shower ever!
Anyway...back to chiloe...The fishermen live in little houses called
palifitos, brightly coloured houses on stilts over the estuary.  I spent 2
days in Ancud the largest town (23,000 people) where me,the two canadians I
am still with and the aussie guy all got offered jobs in hospedajes for a
few months, a great opportunity to help with my spanish and really get to
know the place but I am too keen to get to Bolivia right now, they said they
will still have places in two months though so we´ll see.
After Ancud I went to Castro, the capital and a really pretty little town
witha  purple and ornage church in the plaza.
From there we all went to Cucao just near the national park and stayed there
overnight, at first I wasnt sure how the park would be as there was no
information anywhere on it, no maps, no tourist office, nothing and the only
picture I could find about it showed a fushia... fascinating!
Anyway, I went to the national park there and after reading about all their
legends and myths that they really still believe and live by, it was
fantastic.  there was a trail that led through this forest of these special
types of trees that were really low and survive in semidarkness (heightened
by the fact that I was there at about 5pm) The floor was laid out with
twisty tree roots and fallen logs which led me on a trail through their
depths.  there were loads and loads of little hidey holes that could have
been hiding gnomes and trolls, huge spider webs sparkling with raindrops
that would have made really cool trampolines for the pixies and windey
gnarley old trunks and low hanging branches that made even me feel really
tall, a giant in a fairy tale world!
Strange bird calls added to the expereience and when we suddenly opened out
into a swampy marshland with tall willowy sparsly decorated trees it was a
total surprise!
We headed off on another trail which led us to the beach.  Jaymie (one of
the candians and Martin, the pervy little aussie went one way directly
through the marsh adn Logan and I walked the long way around to stay
dry....he managed it, on a long jump over a patch of water he made it easily
looking back at the last minute when he realised i probably wouldnt make it.
He turned just in time to see me leap, land and my landing foot slide out
from under me sending me skidding forward flat on my back soaking my brand
new handknitted dead cool chilean jumper and everything else!  Typical, we
had a good laugh and waded on through the bog till we reached the huge
sanddunes and when we climbed those it was all worth it.  We just went
flying down the dunes towards the waves, the  beach was deserted adn the
sand was volcanic and black and went on forever.  it was awesome being there
just at sunset but we had to leave before it got too dark and we wouldnt be
able to fiund the trail home!
Today we left and I am now in puerto varas where there is an abundance of
lakes volcanoes and mountains.  On the way here the sky cleared just enough
to show a snowy volcanic lip between thick layers of cloud.
I´m finding it hard to control myself with the camera  but I think i might
have killed it yesteday with the sand and the sludge!
Oh yeah, nearly forgot, In chiloe they have these really cool wollen hats
called Gorros, some are just like regular hats and then there are these
other ones, like elf hats, or man in the moon hats that hang down on side of
your face...well, I saw these and I just ahd to have one, so now I am the
proud owner of an 'elf' gorro!
Anyway, keep smiling all
tons of love to you all
hugs and all that
emma



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