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Subject : |
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The long Journey home....part 1
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Date : |
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Fri, 08 Nov 2002 11:13:10 +0000
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Finally left Potosi after 5 very happy, emotional and
interestingly traumatic at times months... the day after my
birthday we were leaving to go to Santa Cruz where pedro's sister
lived to relax for a week before I took off to brazil where I would
spend a week with Luka and then to Sao Paolo for my flight home...
We found the house a while after arriving and finally I met the
rest of Pedro's family, great girls, Carmen is dead nice and calm,
married with an excitable young son and his other sister Mariza was
brilliant, lively and happily curious about everything. Carmen
insisted we sleep in separate beds but in the end we managed to at
least get the same bed, albeit we had to share with Mariza
too!!! The next morning Carmen announced that that night
everyone would sleep together in the same bed, to separate us even
further! By chance that was the day that we were leaving (wink
wink) ! So off we went to town, bought tickets to go to Trinidad
(Beni) in the amazon basin and left that evening leaving most of our
stuff at Carmens house. Beni was gorgeous, hot and tropical,
everything I love. We found a wicked little hotel after being
turned away by everywhere else in town, i felt like Mary adn
Joseph! Ours was a nice little hotel if you didnt mind
taking the toilet door with you every time you went to the loo. Most
of the hotels rooms were occupied by the brothers too who seemed to
love taking a little rest before their little rest from working
which was also mainly resting! Had no money to take a tour of
the Amazon so we went on motorcycle taxi to Puerto Almacen which is
on the banks of the river Mamore. Very very nice place,
gorgeous, hot, exactly as you’d imagen the Amazon to be. The
next day we went off to a little village much deeper into the
jungle. We took the bus which was a little pick up with wooden
planks in the back. For more than 3 hours we rode deep into
the jungle and about halfway through, inevitably I fell of when the
bus bumped so much the seat fell down and me with it,everyone else
sensibly had been holding tightly onto the roof, everyone except me.
The scenery for the most part was wonderful, loads and loads of
interesting gorgeous colourful birds, large ones, small ones,
butterflies, other larger animals, tons of deep deep forest.
then at times, sadly, it seemed like a construction zone, huge areas
of land burnt and razed to the ground, vast plots of land used
purely for cattle grazing. We came back to Santa Cruz, collected
our stuff and finally left on the train at 3pm, Pedro’s first time
on a train ever and despite the melancholy mood between us he was
nevertheless extremely excited. The train was slow, very very
hot and packed with people. Vendors walked up and down the
aisles from 3pm until well into the night selling everything you
could possibly imagine from cold drinks to half dead brightly
coloured birds. We tried sleeping for some of the journey
amongst the numerous incredibly large insects and what was honestly
the biggest most ferocious mosquito I have ever seen land on Pedro’s
neck, brushing it off I am convinced I saved his life! The
landscape as we went was incredible, illuminated beautifully by the
moon, flat at first with mountains rising up from time to time
in the most bizarre haunting shapes, tall towers, jutting faces,
animals, mythology and legend were rife in areas like this. That
night I had my first dream in spanish, very impressed with myself
for that one! The train didnt arrive until about 11am the next
day, 15 hours they had told us...my bottom! Pedro immediately
bought his ticket back to Santa Cruz and we got a taxi to the
border. My bus on the other side left at 3pm too so we hung around
for a bit and soon enough the sad time came to say goodbye. All
that done with I got in a taxi and we went... straight past
immigration! A few minutes later I told the driver we had to
return and we did. The bloke in immigrations immediately saw a
chance to get some cold hard cash and asked why, if I wanted to
leave was the car facing the other way, as if it were
entering? Then he realised that the extension stamp on my
passport was on the wrong page where it said exit instead of entry
and his eyes lit up... ‘problem’ he told me. After having to
leave Pedro I was in no mood at all for this, so immediately I began
arguing and telling him there was no problem and he was the one with
the problem and that he was just looking for excuses to take money
from me, that I wanted to talk to the boss, that I wanted him to
call or let me use the phone, of course he was ‘the boss’ and
conveniently the phone ‘didnt work!’ He wanted me to pay 10
Bolivianos for every day I was in Bolivia! In the end he told
me to go to the police, ok then I told him, where are they? In
brazil he replied! But I asked if I could cross and he said
yes so I went with the taxi driver and we went all the way there
while he told me that when I arrived I should leave my stuff there
and get a motorcycle taxi back because it was cheaper, at this point
I got a little suspicious and asked him to wait for me but he said
he couldnt because he was from this side and would get into
trouble. We arrived almost there at the police /
immigration / bus station (all in one place) I asked the driver
the time and he told me it was about 14.45. It was a race
against time, ‘turn around’ I told him, take me to the station
and put your foot down. Passing Immigration I stuck two fingers up
at the window while the driver shouted to the other taxi drivers
what had happened and what a ‘bastardo’ he was. I arrived at
the train station just in time to get the train but the ticket
window was closed so I thought I’d just take my chances and get on
the train anyway... I was frantic, half crying and searching
frenziedly for Pedrito. He saw me first and we got on the
train. We payed the guy next to him 10 Bolivianos to move
(about a quid!) Then just before we left the real boss of
immigration came along and started shouting at me for having entered
Brazil without being stamped out so I explained everything to
him and that his employee was trying to get money out of me. In the
end he told me there was no problem and I could cross but by now I
didnt want to so I said thanks but no thanks and we went. From
Santa Cruz I bought tickets to pass through Paraguay, I was told the
road was good, quicker and cheaper than going through
Argentina. Good then, ticket was bought for 2 days later.
more to follow!!!
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