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Subject : |
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working in the highest city in the
world! | |
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Date : |
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Mon, 17 Jun 2002 19:10:07
+0000 | |
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Potos・is the highest city in the world, it stands at 4000
metres and as such is also bloody freezing, in the daytime with the
sun it is lovely and warm but at night...brrrrrrrrr, I bought
an Alpaca (a type of Llama, although there are bloody loads of them
and they all look the same to me!) blanket which has come in very
handy, some alpaca socks and gloves, all I need now is some red
ribbons in each ear a head on each end...(push me pull you for
anyone who hasnt seen Dr Doolittle).
Potos・itself used to be
the richest city in the world and all this is due to Cerro Rico
(rich hill) the mountain which stands as a stripped red streaky
backdrop to the city. In colonial times the spaniards
discovered the mountains riches and set about putting Indian slaves
and others from Africa to work mining for the vast amounts of silver
that was inside the mountain. Before this, rumour has it that
the mountain was discovered by the last Inca who used to vsit the
nearby area with its thermal pools. The legend has it that
after his discovery a booming voice came from the sky demanding the
mountain be left alone...that the treasure was for those from afar!
Anyway, during the three hundred years of colonial spanish rule
about 8 million people died in the mines under the terrible
conditions and today there are still people working down there in
conditions which although are not half as bad as they were are still
a far cry from anything you would find anywhere else in the
world. The average life of a miner once he has entered the
mines is about 10 years, some go down as early as 10years old.
Its a hard difficult life but a lot of them choose to do so, either
through enjoyment of the job, tradition (most miners would go down
with their fathers and it was expected that they would follow, this
is lessening nowadays though) or through lack of other job
opportunities. When i first arrived here I was taken aback by
the charm of the place, although it is high up, cold and difficult
the some of the others I was with were affected by the altitude,
there is a fresh alpine feel and the architecture is
incredible. All the buildings are very old and look like they
are from Shakespearean times, you can almost imagine Romeo calling
to Juliet at her balcony in parts. The streets are all very
narrow and cobbled and there are over 80 churches in the area from
the time when it was a wealthy place. Thats the city, the
outside area is even more astounding, in one direction you`ve got
Tarapaya and Miraflores, an area full of geothermal activity, hot
springs and hot rivers! The old Indian ladies go to wash their
clothes in the sulphur smelling hot water and other go to
bathe. The main attraction, a perfectly circular hot lake,
called the Ojo del Inca (Inca`s eye so called because this was the
favoured bathing spot of the last Inca) is set amongst a beautiful
valley which is really easy to climb as the rock is all volcanic.
In the other direction is the Kari Kari range which is full of
over 30 natural and artificial lakes, you can climb to almost
5000metres here and walk through valleys, canyons and be so far away
from anything you can feel like you really are the only person
alive. I went there yesterday, just on a short hike a few
kilometres to the first lake and could barely breathe from the
beauty of it. All the views here in this area are so vast, you
can see land formations on the other side of the city from almost an
aerial view at times. Anyway, after just two days here I was
talking to one of the guides, Pedro about staying in Bolivia for a
while and practising my spanish, he told me straight away he would
get me a job...the next day he found me to talk to his boss and the
following day...I began work as the new secretary! Since then I
have been selling tours, helping out in their associated hostel, a
lovely little place and only 3 weeks old, and practicing spanish
lots! The guides all speak english really well but only use
spanish with me which is really good. The owner is a funny
Bolivian guy who visited england a while back and has since come
back with all sorts of wild funny englishisms! He came to work
the other day delighting in telling me how he hadnt had time to put
his pants on and did I want to see, we all went out after work that
night to the best disco in town...man, Id hate to see the
worst! The most bizarre thing was that everyone was dancing on
the dance floor in two very distinct lines, boys on one side and
girls on another or sometimes mixed, dancing in twos but always in
these lines...so in we went charging in causing havoc and messing up
their unity, barrel of laughs. Anyway, I really should get back
to work! love to you all Emma
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